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USA 2004
Having booked my flights months in advance it did not take long
for the trip to come around and I was looking forward very much
to my first visits to Wyoming and Utah. Flying out of Aberdeen
on March 24th I eventually arrived at midnight in Kalispell, Montana.
I headed on to the Days Inn for the night after picking up the
rental car.
I grabbed a quick cup of coffee and doughnut and headed on the
drive down to Missoula and the resort of Montana Snowbowl which
I had previously visited in 2002.
It instantly hit me that the snow levels were very much less
than my previous visit after an extremely warm period that would
continue throughout my trip. The parking lot and the ground beneath
the chairlift were completely stripped of snow but the bottom
line was that I was here to ski regardless and having not skied
since the previous winter I happily wondered up to the ticket
office for my pass.
Knowing the resort well I headed to the upper chair and spent
most of the morning on the sun kissed slopes taking in the views
and breaking in the legs. With conditions on the lower mountain
rated marginal I decided that I would stay high until lunchtime.
I chose one of the runs down through the guts of the mountain
and it was amazing to see how little snow there was in places
and with another two weeks of skiing in front of me it was a little
concerning that I may not see out the season!
With a long drive along I-90 to Bozeman I headed away early after
a few runs in the afternoon. My destination for the night was
the Super 8 motel just off the road and within a few miles of
Bridger Bowl. After a quick trip to the local supermarket I headed
on to the liquor store for some much needed beer and headed back
to the motel for a night in front of the TV.
With a short drive to Bridger Bowl there was no need to be up
early and I took advantage of this and caught up on some much
needed sleep. Looking out of the motel window it was clear that
snow was in the air and I jumped into the car for the short drive
up to the resort.
The parking lot at Bridger is like a hand, with each outstretched
finger acting as a separate lot. I was able to park the car in
the lot nearest the day lodge and at first glance the resort seemed
very quiet and everything you require is in a small collection
of buildings at the base.
Just as I was stepping out of the car the heavens opened and
it really was coming down in absolute sheets of water. Undeterred
I got my boots on and walked up to get my ticket. Having bought
new gear for this trip I was really glad to see that the rain
tipping onto my legs was simply bouncing off and I was warm and
dry. With each lift up the mountain the rain slowly turned white
and by the time I was on the Bridger chair the snow was thick
and deep under foot.
The terrain on the upper mountain is for good intermediate skiers
and boarders and above and in limited visibility it was tough
to navigate the large moguls that were partially covered by a
foot or so of fresh snow in places. The Deer Park lift offered
some superb sport and I spent most of my morning exploring the
trails off of this lift along with the Bridger lift. Some of the
runs through the large rock formations were great and in better
visibility I reckoned that the views would be superb.
Lunch was spent at the Deer Park Chalet and it was busier than
the slopes with a lot of skiers and boarders warming themselves
and getting some much needed food and drink. After a lovely lunch
it was time to head over to the Pierre's Knob lift that accesses
the South Bowl. A small traverse across from the top and the wide
open bowl offers superb skiing and with plenty of fresh powder
I was happy to try several routes down.
After a hard day on the slopes I headed into the Jim Bridger
Lodge for a quick beer before heading down to Driggs for the next
couple of nights. I bought my beer and grabbed a seat overlooking
the nursery slopes which having been almost washed away in the
morning was now covered by a few inches of fresh snow. The waiter
recognised the foreign accent and was extremely interested in
finding out about the 'naked man' that he had read about in the
daily newspapers. Wondering what on earth he was talking about,
it turns out he was talking about the naked rambler that was walking
between Land's End and John O'Groats. After that I could hear
him telling other people about it and that they should talk to
the Scottish guy about it!
After another beer it was time to head off and after a scenic
drive through Yellowstone National Park I arrived in the Super
8 in Driggs. Another really nice motel I had scored another huge
room all to myself. I was a little annoyed that my TV controller
was not working, but I coped!
I headed up to Grand Targhee and arrived in the parking lot in
bitterly cold and misty conditions. After buying my ticket I waited
patiently for the Dreamcatcher lift to open for the day. I noticed
that one or two skiers were heading off to another lift and with
a good twenty minutes before the main lift opened I headed across
to the Blackfoot lift.
The lift was quiet and I was joined on the runs by a handful
of skiers and with 6" of fresh snow on the intermediate terrain
it was simply great fun. Run after run I only stopped for the
occasional picture and to watch some of the youngsters racing
on an adjoining piste. By lunchtime I was fairly tired and I headed
into the lodge for a couple of pints and I decided to have the
daily special for lunch.
Refreshed, I headed back out and spent the afternoon on the Dreamcatcher
lift and although I found the terrain to be fairly easy it was
fun none the less.
Once the lifts closed I drove back to the Super 8 and had a long
walk into town and stumbled across the O Rourkes bar in the centre
of town. The walls were adorned with American football, NBA and
baseball memorabilia. I sat at the bar and had a few beers and
headed across the road for some shopping. Back to the Super 8
I watched a bit of TV before calling it good for the night.
I packed up the car in brilliant blue skies with just a trace
of new snow in the parking lot. All set I headed over Teton Pass
for a day at Jackson Hole. The road over the pass was winding
and at times a little scary. I stopped at the summit to take a
few pictures and the view down towards Jackson was simply amazing.
After dropping off the car I headed off to the Jackson tram.
Expecting a queue I was amazed that on a beautiful Sunday morning
I was pretty much on the first tram that came down. Listening
to the liftie give his safety talk I was beginning to wonder if
I was biting off more than I could chew. At over 10000ft my camera
could not handle the cold and I was disappointed that I could
not get more photos of the stunning scenery. I was able to pick
out the trails at Snow King in Jackson.
I spent most of the day in the deep powder of the Rendezvous
Bowl off the tram along with the trails from the Bridger gondola.
All great fun although the sun was beginning to have an effect
on the conditions lower down. This would become a common theme
for the rest of my trip.
With a long drive down to Park City where I would spend a week
with Mike Richards, I headed off at around 3pm for the 6 hour
drive south.
The drive is fairly boring through pretty bland scenery on the
whole. Having made good time I was an hour or so ahead of schedule
so when I felt the urge for a toilet stop I stopped in the town
of Evanston in south Wyoming. Wondering into a local bar I ordered
a beer and sat down and wrote a few postcards before heading on
to Park City.
I arrived at around 9pm and cracked open a few beers with Mike
before heading to bed for the night.
Our destination for the day was Powder Mountain, a resort that
Mike had been raving about all winter. Mike was helping out with
a British school's group from Bedford and as part of the deal
Mike and I received free ski passes. Once the kids were split
into their groups Mike and I joined teachers Richard 'Chads' Chadwick,
Nigel Robinson, Dave 'Jenks' Jenkins and Dave Kendall for a tour
round the area.
The unseasonably warm weather had taken its toll on the slopes
with the Paradise lift not operating. This on paper closes a lot
of the mountain but as I was to find out the opportunities were
still plentiful.
We skied laps of the mountain and in the warm sun built up a
real hunger and we really enjoyed our burgers and fries in the
lodge. More of the same in the afternoon and it was time to head
back down to Park City for some pizza, beer and the hot tub. Our
entertainment for the evening was the extremely funny film One
Night At McCools starring Liv Tyler, Matt Dillon, Michael Douglas
and John Goodman. Great film and before long it was time for bed.
After a quick breakfast we were on our way. Mike was helping
out by taking a couple of British guests up to Brighton so I waited
for his friend, Tom Wilson-North, to pick me up before following
Mike up to the resort.
After getting my ticket I was amazed to see just how quiet the
resort was. We walked onto every lift without anyone in front
of us. We spent the morning on the Crest, Snake Creek and Great
Western lifts and although the snow was firm it was fun none the
less. It was amazing in the clear blue skies to see just how close
the other Utah resorts were and it was interesting to think how
much they would gain or lose if they were all connected by lifts.
From a personal viewpoint I don't think that would be a good idea
but I guess others may disagree.
We finished the morning on the Millicent lift and settled down
in the strong sun for lunch at the small restaurant at the base
of the lift. Burger and fries certainly did the trick and we finished
the day with laps on Millicent before heading over to the other
side of the mountain which had gradually softened in the strong
sun.
A nice beer and chicken wings in the lodge to finish off and
it was soon time to head back to Park City for a quick change
of clothes and a drive up to Ogden to the Prairie Schooner, a
restaurant where every table is under a Conestoga wagon top, where
we met up with the schools group. After a nice meal we took a
look up to the local ten pin bowling alley to arrange the following
night's activities. After a drive back to Park City Mike decided
that he would use the room up at the hotel in Ogden from now on
to save driving up and down the road each day.
Mike had a lot of paperwork to attend to so decided that he would
drive me up to the lifts at Park City and meet me for the afternoon.
I spent most of my morning on the immaculately groomed trails
off the Thaynes and Motherlode lifts. The hot sun was softening
the piste nicely and even though I was wearing just a long sleeved
t-shirt and fleece I was finding it very warm. Waiting behind
a group of skiers for the Thaynes lift I laughed along with everyone
else when a guy and his wife landed in a spot of bother while
loading the chair. At the very last second the lady decided to
change sides with her husband and although she loaded safely her
husband fell face first into the dirt with the chair going right
over the top of him. It was so funny to see and I had the pleasure
of the husbands company on the chair. Turns out he was from Augusta,
Georgia and as the US Masters was on the following week we spoke
about our mutual interest in golf. He laughed when I suggested
Colin Montgomery as a potential winner!
By lunchtime I headed to the base area and met Mike who was still
busy with paperwork and he pointed me in the direction of somewhere
where I could grab some lunch. I headed up to the lovely Summit
House restaurant at the top of the mountain and enjoyed a lovely
burger and a beer before heading over to Scott's Bowl for the
afternoon.
The views from Scott's Bowl were superb and even at 10000ft you
could really feel the warmth in the air. It felt warmer there
than summer back home in Scotland! The off-piste opportunities
were nice but the snow certainly was hard on the legs. I eventually
headed down to the pick up point to meet Mike having thoroughly
enjoyed my day at Park City.
We set off in separate cars from Park City to our new home at
the Comfort Suites in Ogden and after dumping our gear in the
room we headed to the reception area where each night there is
a guest social. Basically it is a free bar although the custom
is to put $1 in the tips for each drink. After a few vodkas it
was time to jump on the bus and head to the ten pin bowling alley
for the night.
I had wound Mike up that I was going to give him a lesson but
unfortunately that did not happen. Nigel was by far the best on
the night but it was all good fun. Back to the hotel and time
for a couple of drinks before bed. It turned out that my day at
Park City had been the hottest March day on record with temperatures
in Salt Lake City hitting 80 degrees. It was also the hottest
March ever!
It had turned out the previous night that one of the kids had
lost their passports and Mike decided that he would need to take
a day off with Chads and the kid to try to get something sorted
so that they could get the kid home on Saturday.
I headed off to Powder Mountain with the school and skied the
morning in overcast skies myself. Meeting up at lunchtime I joined
the teachers for the afternoon. We were all finding the snow particularly
sticky so Nigel brought out his tub of rub on wax. It was funny
as Jenks had his done first and as I was helping Nigel with my
skis and his Jenks got his skis on and skied off. We laughed when
all we could hear was an ooo and an aaa followed by the breaking
of dry tree branches. We turned round to see Jenks wrapped round
a tree suggesting that the wax was very good indeed!
That night we arrived in the bar area and joined Mike and Chads
for a few drinks. Having been here a few nights we were all known
and at bang on 6pm when the free bar closes the barmaid came over
and offered us one last drink. Tipping her well we got pretty
strong drinks and we were surprised at about 6.15pm when she asked
us if we wanted another. Not one to turn down a free drink I was
happy that everyone else agreed. Back she came with massive plastic
cups filled with vodka and coke! Brilliant!
That night the kids were heading to the cinema so Mike and I
decided to stay in the bar. As I was staying for the week with
Mike for nothing I took the tab. Eventually we were joined by
Jenks after the school party headed to their rooms and chatted
to around midnight before heading to bed.
We were skiing my final day in Utah at Powder Mountain and again
we were blessed with beautiful blue skies and mild temperatures.
It was great to watch the young kids bombing around the mountain
and we wondered how many guests there actually would have been
on the mountain if it weren't for the schools group. Concentrating
on having fun we blitzed the mountain throughout the day stopping
only for a quick bite to eat and to take the occasional picture.
Back to the motel we stopped to drop off all the kids' rental
equipment before grabbing our dinner. We were heading out to the
local rodeo for the evening which I was really looking forward
to seeing. By the time we arrived at the venue the wind had really
picked and was howling through the large shed where the cowboys
and cowgirls were trying to rope the small cattle. Very good to
watch and I was disappointed when we had to leave. In fairness
it was probably of little interest to kids but certainly something
that all the adults appreciated.
Driving back to the hotel the bus was being buffeted back and
forth and at one stage the back of a pickup truck was blowing
across the road! We arrived at the hotel during a power cut and
we headed to the bar for a few drinks before bed.
The next morning I was heading off on my travels and it was sad
to be leaving Mike and Utah behind but we agreed that we would
meet in the USA next year if we were both around. With the car
packed I was on my way north on I-15 to the local ski area of
Pebble Creek near the town of Pocatello.
The drive was fairly bland and I was glad to finally find myself
in the parking lot. It turned out that although the lifts were
running round 50% of the mountain was closed due to the Mogul
Madness Hill Climb where snowmobile's race up the course which
was underneath the main chairlift. I had to sign a disclaimer
before boarding the chair which took away any liability the resort
would have if anything happened to me! I jumped onto the lower
chair to the base lodge as the upper parking lot was full of trucks
and there was absolutely no snow under the lift.
The skiing was ok but I decided to spend most of the day watching
the hill climb. There were some excellent crashes with my favourite
being when one driver got very nearly to the top before being
thrown out of his seat. The snowmobile pretty much turned around
and headed downhill, at speed with no driver. It crashed into
the trees at the side of the piste and once it came to a complete
stop had to be pulled out be the marshals and nursed back to the
lodge.
The slopes were quiet and although lacking cover the skiing was
still decent enough and I would love to go back at some point
to ski on the back side of the mountain which offers some superb
out of bounds skiing.
I loaded up the car for the long journey north to Drummond, and
the Sky Motel which I now visit every year on my travels. I was
dark by the time I arrived and I quickly spoke to Bill and Kathy
before heading down to the Canyon Bar for a much needed drink.
Although fairly quiet I had an excellent night chatting to the
locals. Off to bed I was looking forward to spending closing day
at Discovery Basin.
After a cup of coffee in the reception I headed up to Discovery
Basin just a short drive from town. The parking lot was deserted
and most of the front side of Rumsey Mountain was closed due to
a lack of snow so I headed into the back bowls and had an excellent
day roaming about the mountain.
I was surprised just how quiet the mountain was. Granted, it
was not all that great conditions but with 7 months before next
season I expected a few more skiers. The locals were skiing the
Limelight trail under the lift so I joined them on lap after lap
until the lift closed. All too soon my day at Discovery was over
but none the less I had a great time and can't wait to go back
again. One of my real favourite local areas in the USA.
Back to Drummond via the supermarket I sat in my motel doorway
with the sun beating down I read a book, drank my beer and took
in the view to the distant hills. Wonderful!
I was up and about early for the long drive to Silver Mountain,
Idaho and after saying my farewells I took off along I-90. It
is a fast drive to Kellogg and although it is 175 miles it can
easily be driven in under 2 ½ hours. Although it was later
that day before I remembered, I had actually forgotten about the
time difference so I was actually an hour ahead of myself! I wondered
why the lodge was so quiet when I stopped for an early lunch.
It was probably nearer 10.45 than 11.45!
Having been to Silver Mountain before I knew what to expect and
I grabbed my lift ticket and jumped onto the deserted gondola.
The mountain was quiet and the snow soft but with the sun beating
down again it was nice sport and certainly better than work.
I spent most of the day on the Wardner Peak side of the mountain
and although warm the cover in general was pretty good. Silver
Mountain is ideally situated with the gondola rising from the
town itself and is certainly a resort that UK visitors would do
well to check out if they are ever in the area. Its two biggest
problems are that it is not close to any major airline hubs and
the wind often closes the mountain. When that happens simply take
a drive up the road a few miles to the small resort of Lookout
Pass.
I set off once again for the final drive of my holiday up to
Whitefish and the superb resort of Big Mountain, Montana. The
drive took me through some stunning scenery and as I had made
good time I decided to stop for a couple of beers in a bar in
Dayton. A wooden clad structure it was both deceptively busy and
large inside. I settled down and wrote a few postcards before
making my way to the Cheap Sleep motel in Whitefish where I would
spend the remainder of my trip. I dropped off all my gear and
took the car back to Kalispell airport and got a taxi into town.
Having been before I knew what to expect in town and after a
few beers I wondered back up the road for a good nights sleep.
The free Snow Bus picks up and drops off from the door of the
Cheap Sleep and works perfectly for those of us who like a good
few beers after a day on the slopes. The guys that drive the bus
are only too willing to drop you off at stops not listed on the
timetable.
Friday brought some much needed snow to the area and after the
warm weather I had endured for the last few weeks it was great
to be skiing some powder. I spent the day in the East Rim and
North Bowl Face areas. It was simply superb and with the lack
of skiers and boarders on the mountain I had fresh lines most
of the day.
I headed to the Stube after skiing and sank a few beers in the
busy bar. It was the prize giving for the Big Mountain Vertical
competition and the beer hall was pretty much packed. I met a
couple of guys who were heading to town so I managed to grab a
lift and headed straight to the Remmington Bar for a few drinks.
I met a great bunch of guys who were up for closing weekend from
Missoula. Eventually I headed home although by the following morning
my recollection of the evening was a little sketchy!
The last Saturday of the season at Big Mountain is the day of
the annual furniture race. Locals strap skis onto various pieces
of furniture and race them downhill. It is certainly not a serious
event! I had spent a few evenings in Moguls bar and I was sitting
in the early afternoon having a beer before the race began when
two guys sat down next to me at the bar. Turning round I recognised
them from the previous night and the Remmington. By now I was
known as Willy, the character from The Simpsons and they invited
me out to watch the race with them and their friends.
Standing watching the race the guys pulled out a massive water
pistol. Thinking that they were about to soak someone I was unsure
what the call 'Makers mark' meant. It turned out that each time
they shouted this you had to open your mouth and take a shot of
Makers Mark whisky. Great times.
After the race we headed to the parking lot where the guys setup
a BBQ and every now and then a few of us ventured into the packed
Stube for a few more drinks. It was great fun and the BBQ salmon
was simply superb. Just as a few of us were preparing to head
into town the mountain security came to warn us about letting
off fireworks. Undeterred we headed into Whitefish and the Great
Northern Bar for the night. Playing pool badly I headed home knowing
that my holiday was almost over.
After a final days skiing I headed home on the Monday morning
knowing that I had skied 11 resorts in 4 states and had an excellent
holiday. Back to work, all I could do was dream of the next trip.
This article was written by Quintin Chalmers, a 30-year-old skier
from Aberdeen in the north of
Scotland. Quintin has skied at over 50 North American resorts
and is in the process of setting up
www.offthebeatenpath.co.uk
designed to help like minded people find the best turns in some
of the
more unusual resorts in western USA. He has over 20 years skiing
experience and enjoys nothing
more than seeing new places that many people write off as being
not worth the hassle.
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