USA 2007 - PART 4

Saturday March 31st - A Guided Tour

With a long day in front of me I decided to start early, finish early and get to my next destination, Glenwood Springs before dark. So by 8am I was up and away under beautiful blue skies although it was clear that there would be more fresh powder to be had.

First stop of the day was the Durango community hill, Chapman Hill, for a few photos before heading north to Durango Mountain(2029ft, 1200a, $30) for my second successive day skiing powder. Parking in one of the lower lots I jumped on one of the shuttles, bought my ticket and decided to head over to Chair 8 which I felt would offer the best conditions and due to the nature of the lift and terrain I felt it would be quiet. I was not to be disappointed!

Taking Chair 5 I could see that most people on the mountain were sticking to the front side of the mountain and there was around 12" of powder with my name written all over it. The skiing on Chair 8 was absolutely fantastic. Steep enough, deep enough and dead quiet.

A lot of people were missing the tougher bottom section and joining the lift midway but I headed to the bottom on heavy moguls which were loaded with fresh snow making each turn seem much deeper than 12". Skiing hard the sun began to take affect and make the turns a little trickier so by 12pm I headed to Dantes for a burger and beer($14) on the deck and met a local guy, Greg.

We shared a few stories and then headed back onto the slopes with Greg very kindly offering to give me a local's tour and some very interesting history of the local ski areas as well as some general history of the area. It was interesting to hear a local's story of clearing slopes at Chapman Hill as well as building the first lifts at Durango back in the 60s. I was also keen to learn about how snowfall has changed during the past few decades. Greg assured me that when he was a kid Chapman Hill would have opened for many weeks throughout the season whereas now it barely opens. Interesting however to learn that the local town have given permission to install snowmaking which should help the hill get back towards its past glories.

We hit a couple of runs on lifts 5 and 8 before heading to the front side where we stopped at the base for a much needed drink and then met up with Greg's son Elliot and his girlfriend Libby. All three were very good skiers and we blasted through the terrain park and caught the final chair of the day back to the summit. Taking in the view we were practically the last few skiers off the mountain and after saying my thanks and goodbyes I clicked back into my skies and skied down to my car and packed up for the 5 hour drive north to Glenwood Springs.

Greg had told me what to look for on the road north and I was not to be disappointed with some of the most amazing scenery I think I have seen in the USA. Steep drops, winding roads and snow capped peaks in every direction. A car flashed at me and although I was a fraction over the limit I felt it was a little strange. Slowing it a bit I rounded a corner and rammed on the brakes. A massive rock about the size an average TV had crashed down the mountain, through the concrete crash barrier and landed right on the centre line. Not much I could do other than warn the two or three other cars that I passed.

I headed through the scenic town of Silverton and decided to take a look up to Kendall Mountain(400ft, 35a) and take a few snaps of the local ski area. To my surprise, although the hill was closed, there was more than enough snow to make some turns in the cream cheese snow that just about covered the rocks below!

I hiked under the new chairlift and stopped for breath and really marvelled at the surroundings. Silverton is surrounded on every side by high mountains and is certainly one of the most scenic towns I have been to. Back to the skiing I clicked in and noticed a 5m wide section of fresh snow that looked to have enough cover to link some turns down to the bottom. Half a dozen nice turns and I was back at the base having bagged a bonus!

Back on the road I had a major problem, no gas and Silverton had no open gas stations. I was in trouble and would be running on fumes in the hope that Ouray had an open station. The road into Ouray was scary and I really was glad that it was a sunny March evening and not a snowy night in mid winter. I rolled through Ouray. No sign of a gas station and I was getting to the stage where I was ready to beg a local to fill me up enough to get to Montrose some 40 miles north. Round the final bend and I could see two gas stations on the left. I was shouting in delight and at last had a smile on my face to match the day that I'd had.

With another 3 hours drive ahead I settled down with some brilliant music. 80's and then 90's for an hour each and before long I arrived in Glenwood Springs and headed to the Frontier Lodge where I'd enjoyed a stay back in 2005. $230 for 3 nights was quite expensive but I knew the accommodation was good and after a ribbing from the Croatian owner about the state of my nose that I had unfortunately missed when putting cream on in the morning I settled down to crackers, cheese and wine before turning in at 11pm.

Sunday April 1st - Funky Monkey

Basing myself in Glenwood Springs I had several options today. The Aspen resorts, Sunlight, closing day at Powderhorn or head east. I made the decision to drive to Aspen and make a decision as to which mountain to ski once I was closer.

By 10am I was buying my ticket at Buttermilk(2030ft, 435a) which is the largely beginner mountain of the four in the area. I decided to ski here as it was closing day and as the season at Aspen Highlands had been extended I had the option of skiing all three mountains that I had not been to in the past. At $82 the skiing was expensive but over a trip these things even themselves out a little.

I headed to the summit and then over to the West Buttermilk Express for a quick warm up on some cruising terrain. I jumped on a lift and was joined by a young lad and an instructor. I listened to their discussion and you could tell that the place was dripping with money. The kid was getting private lessons all week and I had to wonder if this was some film stars son. Keeping myself to myself I eventually cracked when the instructor compared a section of open glades with a closed section and likened the difference between the two to be like girl friends and girlfriend. I had to laugh and the instructor asked if I liked it and said he'd put it in for my benefit.

Wishing them well with their girlfriends I headed over to the Tiehack lift and found some great terrain for pushing hard. Wide open, deserted and just about steep enough to counter the sticky snow. I was also looking to see if I could see any plastic ducks hidden by the ski patrol which could be handed in for prizes. Unfortunately all I found was a cute fluffy monkey that was dressed, like all the lifties, in Hawaiian skirts and the like and tied onto one of the chairs.

By noon I was hungry and headed to the base for a spot of lunch. A 1/2lb burger, fanta and a slice of carrot cake before heading for the rest of the afternoon on the Tiehack lift. It was amazing to see the number of people climbing the mountain on skis and snowshoes although I noticed that many were really athletic ladies. Nice!

Heading off at 3pm I went back to Glenwood Springs for a quick change and then a wander into town for a beer. The first bar I found was Doc Holliday's and I settled down at the bar for an ice cold Bud served in an iced glass. The bar was named after Doc Holliday who spent his final days in the town and is buried in the cemetery in the hill above town. Holliday was a dentist but more famously known for his involvement in the Gunfight at the O.K. Corral.

Back to the ranch I nipped next door for some ribs and sweet and sour prawns from the China Town restaurant and settled down with a glass of red to watch the NCAA Women's Final Four between Tennessee and UNC. I was supporting Tennessee mainly due to the lovely Candace Parker and legendry coach Pat Summitt. With two minutes left Tennessee were 12 down but turned it around to win 56-50 and make Tuesdays final.

Off to bed I was pretty much down to my final week of skiing for the season.

Monday April 2nd - Representing Scotland

I had decided over the last few days that I would visit all the Aspen resorts as I'd been to Snowmass last winter and today I was heading for Aspen Highlands(3635ft, 1010a) and another $82 for the pleasure.

Three lifts and I was finally at the top and skiing. After a few runs on the Luge Peak lift I headed onto the steep trails on the Deep Temerity lift. It was quiet but it was not surprising. The skiing was extremely challenging due to the firmness, moguls and steepness. I had to stop two or three times as the soles of my feet were aching. Bad technique I guess.

It was warm and by 1pm I was in need of food and drink so I headed into the Merry-Go-Round restaurant for a burger, small bottle of wine and chocolate cake($23). Very nice although a pretty expensive meal by my standards. I sat and watched the skiers and boarders for a while before heading out and had a few laps blasting full speed on the Cloud Nine lift before calling it good for the day at 3pm.

Back to Glenwood Springs I headed down to Doc Holliday's for a few beers. A local at the bar started chatting after hearing my accent and we had a good chat before a few games of pool with the locals. Jessie, his lovely boss Arty and Eric played one another and I won five games out of six losing only once when I potted the black in the wrong pocket. It's always nice to represent Scotland on the international stage and it was funny when I headed home to hear the chants of Scotland, Scotland, Scotland ringing out!

I headed back up to the ranch and had a few snacks before heading to bed before my final day in Aspen.

Tuesday April 3rd - Friendly Faces

I was again up early and packed my gear up before the now familiar drive to Aspen and the final mountain in the area that I have to visit, Aspen Mountain(3267ft, 673a). I could not see any real signs for parking so I drove in the direction of the gondola and decided that I'd park for 4 hours on the street and have a short day before heading to meet my dad and brother in Frisco.

A few people milling about around the lift but certainly not busy and I jumped on the gondola with a guy from Indiana who was staying with a large group up in Snowmass. He was a fan of Snowmass and Aspen Mountain but despite coming to Aspen for several years had never been to the other two mountains. I always find that strange.

The sun was shining and the trails in the sun were fantastic spring skiing with those in the shade being similar to cement. I pretty much spent the morning doing laps between the Ruthie's and FIS lifts. I was the only person skiing the glades off FIS and to be honest it was as good as it got. Spring snow, steep but too short and always the danger that I failed to traverse across in time and meant I either had to climb to the lift or ski down to the next lift. I was having fun either way.

I caught a lift with a nice girl skiing with her husband and young kid who were in the chair ahead of us. She was interested to know my thoughts of Aspen and I gave her my thoughts. Far too expensive compared to what I consider to be better skiing elsewhere and particularly when a good chunk of the mountain was closed $82 is ridiculous and resorts should charge less when the mountain is not fully open. Still, I was on holiday, can afford it and was enjoying myself and I should try and remember that others are not as fortunate.

I headed in for a spot of lunch at the Sundeck and treated, and I mean treated, myself to a Stir Fry Shrimp Pad Thai which consisted of shrimps, greens, noodles and scrambled eggs all freshly cooked in a huge wok to order. Washed down with a small bottle of wine for $37 I listened to a few of the instructors and kids behind me asking if any had seen anyone famous. Clearly this was a place where money was everywhere.

By 2pm and my parking ticket running out I headed down to the base in tricky conditions with wet corn snow piling up. Another two hours and a few beginners on the go and this would have been interesting!

Back to the car I headed down to Glenwood Springs and decided to take a wander up the hill in search of the grave of Doc Holliday which I was told was a fifteen minute walk and gave excellent views of the town. Thirty minutes later a Scottish guy in ski clothes was about 1500ft above town and no sign. Clearly I was not on the right track so I headed downhill and with sweat pouring from my brow I headed into Doc Holliday's for a couple beers to catch my breath and quench a very big thirst!

On the road again I was heading for Frisco for the next week to ski with my dad and brother who were coming over for 10 days with a party from the UK. Just outside Glenwood Springs I hit trouble. One of the many tunnels on the interstate had developed a major fault and was closed meaning all traffic was using one tunnel and the queues were at a standstill. I laughed at the lorry drivers who were clearly getting more annoyed than me at the people trying to race up the closed lane and cut in near the closure. They moved their lorries into the middle of the road and left a few people out to dry! Thirty minutes later I was clear and on my way to Frisco.

A nightly rate of $89.99 was expensive for me but I knew it would be good and give me the opportunity to ski with my dad and brother for the first time since we skied in South America back in 2005. My room was huge, there was a bar, restaurant and internet PC in the foyer. Everything I need!

I settled down to American Idol and the NCAA final to watch my favourite, Candace Parker, in action. A great win and Pat Summitt really is one of the best coaches in any sport. 7 national titles and an appetite for more. Combine that with 6'4" Parker who turned down a $1m contract in Russia to play another season and graduate from college then you surely have a winning team.

At 10.30pm I heard a bus outside and could see my dad and brother. Certain they would want a cool drink and some snacks I got some ice into the sink and awaited the knock at the door. It was good to see the guys and hear of their journey to get here and tell them about my last week since I spoke to them. After eating all my crackers and cheese they headed to their room for a much needed nights sleep.

Tomorrow I was heading to one of only three major mountains in Colorado that I had yet to ski, Breckenridge.

Wednesday April 4th - Disappointing

With average conditions I suggested to the guys that there was no real rush in getting to Breckenridge(3398ft, 2358a) so we picked the 10am bus from the stop across the road from the Best Western direct to the Breck Connect gondola. After getting their pass sorted for the next 10 days skiing with their party and my day ticket($81) we jumped on the gondola and decided that due to the conditions which were fairly average coupled with dad and Matt finding their legs we would head to the cruising terrain on Peak 9 and Peak 10.

I found the terrain to be pretty average and the conditions to match and for me this place was vastly overrated compared to the hype I had read about. Anyway, I tried to make the most of it and we skied through until 12.30 before stopping for some lunch in the Ten Mile restaurant which was packed. Coke, cheeseburger and fries for all($45) and we were all pretty disappointed as it just did not taste of anything and for a place with the reputation of Breckenridge it was very poor. Some of the people in the guy's group also found the food to be below average in quality and my only hope is that we went on a bad day.

We skied across the mountain doing a lap here and there before calling it quits at 3.30pm and headed back to the gondola hoping to find a bar at the base area before getting a bus back to Frisco. Again disappointed we jumped on the next bus and headed for home.

Back in the Best Western we dropped off our gear and headed down to the bar for the après ski hour and had a few beers before Matt and dad headed across to Safeway to pick up some corn dogs, chicken strips and potato wedges for our dinner in front of the TV which we washed down with a beer or two.

All in all a disappointing day and not a resort I would rush back to when there are better alternatives all around this area of Colorado.

Thursday April 5th - Brown Snow

We had discussed prior to leaving the UK as to which, if any, resorts dad and Matt wanted to visit out with their tour. I had a car, was prepared to drive any distance and knew most of the resorts that they could choose. I had the feeling that the two logical choices were Sunlight(2010ft, 470a), a small local's mountain near Glenwood Springs that I first discovered back in 2005, or the internationally known resort of Winter Park.

Packing the car in a snowy Frisco I made the decision that due to fairly average conditions in the area it was a chance to visit the smaller hill where if nothing else my dad and brother would see one of my favourite off the beaten path resorts.

We set off around 8am and the drive of around 90 miles was a little slow on Vail Pass which had seen around 3-5" of fresh snow. I was beginning to think we were heading in the wrong direction when the snow covered trees turned to green and by the time we were in Glenwood Springs there was little evidence of snow. Heading up the access road there was little sign of snow never mind fresh and I was seriously panicking that I had dragged them all this way only to find the resort closed for the season. Turning round the last bend I was sure the chairs were moving and to my relief they were. We would have some fun today at least!

We grabbed our tickets($45) and headed to the lower lift which serves the resorts beginner terrain but also takes you above the base for access to the main lift that takes you to the summit. The slopes were seriously struggling with the terrain to the right of the lift being decimated by the recent warm weather. Heading to the summit however it was clear that there was 3-4" of fresh snow up here and I was beginning to think that this may well be a nice day. It was also a classic inversion day which I always enjoy seeing whether skiing in the USA or at home in the Scottish mountains.

First turns of the day took dad into Rebel as he did not fancy Zephyr. Matt and I skied untouched, heavy powder which I thought was brilliant. Skiing over the bumps the turns were easy and with the sun shining, nobody around this really was spring skiing at its best. Dad rated Rebel as pretty good which is saying something as he prefers his runs pisted. I would take a look down that trail with him later in the day.

We skied most of the open trails off the summit and I allowed dad to lead more than normal so that he skied the trails he wanted to. One such trail was Peace Pipe. I was following him down when I slammed on the anchors after witnessing what can only be described as dad putting a lovely turn into 1/4" snow covering very wet mud throwing the dirt across the piste. Fun as he was totally unaware that he was in the dirt and thought that he was carving some great turns! Photo taken I was back on his tail.

We had a nice lunch in the base lodge consisting of burger, fries and coke and decided to take a few more runs to finish our day. We headed up to one of dads favourites, Rebel, for one last run. It was absolutely awful! What on earth he had seen earlier in the day I have no idea but this was not nearly as good skiing as some of the other trails. All fun anyway.

Heading off around 3pm I did not fancy a beer in the bar as I was beginning to feel a little unwell. Coughing and wheezing I felt certain that the climb of a couple days ago where I had been gasping for air and probably dehydrated had taken its toll. Back to the ranch we dumped the gear before heading into the bar for a few après ski drinks. Happy hour from 5-7 so we decided on a few beers and some bar snacks. I was not overly hungry but had a few of the potato skins, chicken fingers and mozzarella sticks. When skiing I generally don't eat much in the evening if I've had something at lunch time.

I watched a bit of TV before heading to bed at around 11pm. However I could not sleep for wheezing and I really was not feeling too hot!

This article was written by Quintin Chalmers, a 32-year-old skier from Aberdeen in the north of
Scotland. Quintin has skied at over 80 North American resorts and is in the process of setting up
www.offthebeatenpath.co.uk designed to help like minded people find the best turns in some of the
more unusual resorts in western USA. He has over 20 years skiing experience and enjoys nothing
more than seeing new places that many people write off as being not worth the hassle.